NEWS: In 2015, we will not be available to conduct tours at the following times:

May 3-9, June 19-July 4, August 20-September 22

The food available in Hanoi's narrow alleys and tree-lined boulevards is just as much a part of the city as its lakes and old world architecture. In fact, all of these elements combine with the indomitable spirit of the Vietnamese people to produce a lively culinary scene that is both diverse and confronting.

Over the past ten years, 'the god' (Van Cong Tu, author of the blog 'Vietnamese God') and myself (Mark Lowerson, otherwise known as 'Sticky' in the pages of this blog) have been traversing the streets of Vietnam's capital, as well as cutting a wider arc through other regions of Vietnam and beyond, wolfing down between us virtually everything on offer.

Tu is an accredited tour guide with more than 15 years experience in the tourism and hospitality industry. He is an expert on the cuisine of the south-central coast, having grown up in Nha Trang and frequent visits to Ho Chi Minh City and Phu Quoc Island make him very well-versed in what people are feeding their faces with in the south, too. But Hanoi is where he dwells and its chaotic web of lanes and alleys are where he eats most. Tu knows the market vendors and they like him.

Mark has been resident in Hanoi since January 2002, eating on the streets here from day one. The blog 'Stickyrice' is one of the longest running foodblogs, with the first post dated May 2005. Named in The Times Online's 50 Best Foodblogs in 2009 (at #22), 'Stickyrice' has been featured on 'Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie' and as part of SBS's Featured Foodie series.

We specialise in Vietnam's streetfood and wet markets and have recently designed a series of itineraries for travellers and food enthusiaists. These tours have been carefully planned to give visitors to Vietnam an authentic taste of a country very attuned to the rhythms of food through the day and through the seasons. Together, we visit the street stalls and markets, sampling the produce and eating from their dishes and bowls, as well as cooking with the ingredients at home.
Our tours range from a one hour market familiarisation to a full-day eat-a-thon. The most popular tour is the 3 hour (8.30am-11.30pm) morning tour which kicks off at Hanoi's old East Gate, and includes a typical street market walk (Tu explains food practices, strange food items, some delicacies), a visit to ceremonial cake stalls, a special French dessert, the food sections of Hanoi's main Dong Xuan market, a streetfood alley for a noodle lunch, fruit stalls and coffee at an historic old quarter cafe.

A full day (9am-3pm) itinerary for foodie tragics (including more market visits and more street snacks and drinks) is also available. For those more in tune with the evenings (4pm-7pm), we also offer a tour of snacks, beers and street noodles, followed by streetside dessert. All tours are inclusive of all food/drinks and are conducted entirely on foot after Tu meets and greets at the hotel.

Tu and Mark can also customise tours for particular interests if given sufficient advance notice. For more information and/or to book a tour, email both Tu: and Mark:

Saturday, 28 April 2012

Egg Coffee

Egg Coffee

Egg coffee??? It sounds fascinating and I have been wondering how they make it. After 10 years living in Hanoi, I finally tried egg coffee the other day with my clients from Australia.

Egg Coffee

After half a day walking around eating heaps of different street food, we walked into Cafe Pho Co in Hang Gai street and tried their signature drink and signature view over Hoan Kiem Lake. The egg coffee is made with normal black Vietnamese coffee and egg yolk whisked with milk and sugar. It tasted a bit like tiramisu on the top, very creamy and rich.
This is a good place to stop for an hour for a coffee , juices or a beer as it located right in the middle of the old quarter even though it is a bit dearer compared to other cafes in town.
Cafe Pho Co
11 Hang Gai Street


  1. Tu,
    Can't thank you enough for the unbelievable morning we spent together in Hanoi over one month ago. The sights, smells, and above all tastes, were awesome. It truely was a highlight of our experience in Hanoi, and would highly recommend the experience to anyone travelling there!

    We have great memories of our honeymoon in Hanoi as a result.

    Kris and Jen (Canada)

  2. Cafe Pho Co seems to be very popular amongst expats. Yet Cafe trung here is not good enough, due to my experience. I highly recommend two cafes:
    39 Nguyễn Hữu Huân
    106 Yên Phụ(better service, better seating)

  3. Tu, thanks for the evening tour, it was great to eat food that we had looked at on the street and thought "that looks good- should we try it?" With your guidance it was all very tasty. enjoyed the conversations we had as well. hope you enjoy your next overseas trip and the tennis!
    Kerry and Robert

  4. Whoa!!! I must try to make this egg coffee!

  5. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  9. Tu and Mark,

    You have a brilliant thing going. Your both bloody lovely and the tour is a ripper.
    Food and people are what anchors my enjoyment in a place. You nailed both.

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  13. Really helpful tip! I learned a lot of things and tips. Great photos as well! I wonder if all or most attractions in hanoi are near and can be walked?

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  15. Caroline Bennett8 November 2015 at 00:04

    Have just spent an amazing afternoon with Tu going round the street food places and markets of Hanoi. Instructive, tasty, charming company - what more can I say. I couldn't recommend his tours more highly. And the blog looks good too - I shall be following it!

  16. Spent a morning eating our way through the Old Quarter and time was very well spent. Tu is a fount of information about the locale & the many edible treats. Even easily accommodated a fairly picky ten-year old! Was a highlight of our time in Hanoi- thanks!!

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  18. We have just spent 3 great hours with Tu on a Hanoi Street food tour. We have been in places that we would normally have hurried by or never found and have sampled some excellent food and drinks. Tu is brilliant,he explained lots of things about food and Vietnamese culture and we are really glad we did the tour. If you are coming to Hanoi add this to your itinerary, it would be a shame to miss what these guys know.

  19. We had a fantastic experience on our 3 hour morning tour with Tú. It was on our first full day in Hanoi and it was a great way to get our Old Quarter bearings, eat some great food & get some helpful tips & tricks for navigating the street food scene. Tú is very knowledgeable and extremely entertaining. I can't recommend the experience highly enough.

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  27. The highlight of my recent trip to Hanoi was most definitely the street food tour hosted by Tu. We were spoilt for choice with so many wonderful treats and even though I don't eat meat this didn't hinder my experience. Tu was the perfect tour guide who is not only able to share his knowledge of the local delicacies, but also of local culture and customs. The three hour tour was nothing short of brilliant. Tu was also able to email me with a list of other places to visit in Hanoi and to my surprise, even in my home town of Melbourne! Next time I visit Hanoi I will be booking Tu's time again for sure!